Trip report # 4 Merida repost

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Posted by Toni in Cincy on November 28, 2001 at 22:35:41:

Our last full day before heading out to Merida. I do the 9-30 dive.
Cindy (from the Dive Shop) is my partner. Off we go to Xaac!! I love that dive. Of course it was fantastic. Actually see so many Queen Angelfish.You begin to think. Oh Yeah.There’s another one. Instead of OOH!!! A Queen angelfish!!!
The water was like glass. Honest, no wake, waves, ripple…nada.zilch. When we came up to get in the boat Cindy and I played for a while in the water, we did not want to get in the boat. She lives there and says she has never seen it so calm. After the dive I went to see the mgr. of Luna Azul. We were moving to Half Moon bay after our trip to Merida. We did not want to schlep all of our stuff to Merida for just 3 days. Kay, and also Marcy offered to keep our gear for us if Angel (the mgr.) would not. Kay was sure there would not be a problem w\Angel. Well, actually I know Angel from renting various properties in Ak over the yrs. He has managed several of them. He remembered me, and said no problem. He gave me the key then. He asked if we would mind moving to Playa Blanca rather than Luna Azul. One of the owner’s family members showed up and he was hoping not to have them move. We have stayed numerous times at Pblanca. I did not have a problem moving at all. Unit #7. 3rd floor. That is one unit we had not been in before. Great unit. Huge, all glass front, decorated very nicely. So I get a key on Monday and we will not be back until late Thurs. I don’t think in the states that would happen very often. Give you a condo key so you can store your luggage.
Mark and I took our stuff up that PM.We stopped by Hekab-be again. Lot of kids there. One group working on the alphabet, some working on reading. A few on the computer. Brenda there, we talked a while. Great place and she is doing a super job. Back to the house for one last night at Aventuras.
Before we left, Ann in DSM had been so kind in faxing me the road the map she uses driving to and from Merida. She drives down from DSM to Tankah every yr. Now that is a trip report to post!! We had corresponded by email several times. I offered to pay her back any way I could. She requested we deliver mail to good friends of hers who live on the Coba road. Of course we were delighted. She FedEx’d her mail to us. Easy directions to her friend’s restaurant. Ann used to camp at Xcacel at the same time Marcy and Memo were there camping as well. They met while camping. Ann’s friends Chepi and Pepe also know Marcy and Memo. So we are going to deliver mail to Pepe, Chepi and their 2 daughters Vicki and Conchi.
Of we go…Now first of all we are in a Chevy Pop ..About the size of a big cockroach. And no Air conditioning.!! I know.. I know !!! Hindsight...pretty stupid. But you rent a car for 3 weeks and it is not cheap by any means. So we head out early to beat the heat. Hahaha There is NO beating the heat in the Yucatan jungle. In full sun all day!! Hahaha
We find their restaurant very easy. Just past Macario Gomez on the Coba road. Pepe and the 2 girls greet us like old friends. They recognize Ann’s name immediately. Hugs and lots of laughing. Beautiful huge restaurant. Enormous palapa roof. We deliver our mail and again back in the Pop as we are trying to get some miles under our belt before it gets too hot. (I took some pics of the family and emailed them to Ann)
We made it to Valladolid w\no problem. Except it is only about 9 AM and we are already hot! There was a school band in the square, so we decided to stop and walk around the square. The Mayan ladies were out selling their embroidered wares. The band was performing and marching. The cathedral on the square had streamers and banners all over it. A beautiful sunny morning. We decided to grab a light breakfast at The Hotel El Meson de Marques. Sat in the courtyard and cooled off. Left the town and headed out on the Libre (free) road to Merida, not the Cuota (toll) road. Just as we were leaving there was the usual complete security \guard stop. We were not asked to get out of the car or show our passports but we were stopped. Kept us just a few mins and then waved us through.
I had packed our collapsible cooler w\ice and water knowing how hot the drive would be. Well, it was even hotter that we imagined. The thermometer on Mark’s backpack read 110 plus degrees in the car! Hahahaha. I kept trying to sponge Mark down.
Saw lots of tropical birds. Very nice easy road. Several times we would see signs posted for Curva Peligrosa!! Numerous reminders that a dangerous curve was ahead. Well, the curves were hardly noticeable. We got a kick out of that.
Traveling the libre road takes you through lots of little Mayan towns. Plus you see all the people from the villages walking along the road. We saw men walking, on bikes, on the triciclos, etcetc. W\guns, machetes, rifles, knives. Etc. There were sooo many photo ops. But in cases like that I did not want to be like” Oh let me get these photos of the little natives” Do you know what I mean?
So most of the fantastic things we saw are in our memories. One that sticks in our minds is the older gent on his bike and there are skinned steer heads all over the handlebars, his back, sides etc (With their horns still on). Out in the middle of nowhere peddling down the road.
Saw a lot of men walking using the tumpline across their forehead. Also saw in the pueblos all the meat for sale just hanging from the roofs of the palapas. Huge cows, steers whatever.
As we drove we kept looking for a Toucan or Mot Mot, but alas none that we saw. As we neared Merida we passed signs for Haciendas. Those will have to wait until we are driving in splendid air-conditioning!!! Hahahaha
I had some preconditioned ideas of what Merida would be like. Huge shaded avenues with glorious mansions. Quiet, tranquil. Lots of roomy sidewalks on which to stroll. Hmmmmmmmmmm…. Well, yes there are some of those glorious tree lined avenues. But not down in the town near the Plaza Mayor and the Cathedral. I guess when we were driving into town and were in bumper to bumper traffic w\little narrow streets and about 6” wide sidewalks we realized it didn’t quite look like the pictures shown frequently in the guidebooks.
Sweating (and swearing) profusely we attempt to maneuver our way to the hotel, Easy directions to the hotel, but where is the pedestrian walkway that we were told to pull onto and unload our luggage.?? Thank goodness a taxi is in front of us and actually pulls into the small park in front of the hotel. Hmmmmm
Not a walkway but an entire park we are driving on..hmmmmm. We decided to stay at The Gran Hotel. Sharooni had written very nice things about it and it is very centrally located. Mark drops me off to check in, and goes off on his own adventure trying to find the parking lot that is located several blocks away.
Very easy check in, We are on the 3rd floor. Room 19.
The hotel is built around a courtyard. There is no roof over the center, just the enclosed rooms and the open courtyard. Lot of greenery. Our room is actually a suite. The door opens into bedroom. Very dark, antique wood furniture, big iron bed. Walk then into a living area that has a big French door opening onto a small balcony overlooking Calle 60, has a couch, tables. Lot of room. But hallelujah! WE have AC! I put that baby on high and hope to cool down. Meanwhile Mark amazingly finds the parking lot. I don’t know how actually. The streets are narrow and all one way. You have to watch the traffic. Watch for the pedestrians. And it isn’t a lot. The parking is in a building. You drive through a very narrow doorway to pull into the lot. He did a great job in finding it.
We both showered and attempted to cool off. We had a copy that Marcy had given us of Yucatan Today. A great touristy magazine. Shopping, eating tips etc. We decided to do the walking tour that was easily mapped out in the book. Start at the cathedral, Plaza Mayor, Casa Montejo etcetc. I won’t go into all the things we saw but it was a very nice way to see some of the historic buildings. On our own terms and pace. We were sitting in the square and I hate to admit it because I think I am a pretty savvy traveler. But I was gullible and roped in.
A young man comes up to “chat” Where are you from…the traditional opening gambit I know, but he went on to talk about his village, the work they do etc. He asks where we are from and we say Cincy. The guy knows all about the Reds. All the players, Pete Rose etcetc. I am thinking well he really is a nice kid. Yeah,.. sure.. How about I go see his shop? No I say. Manana. Well his shop is closed manana due to the big fiesta his village has . That is when I got duped. OK I will go now. Mark is muttering under his breath. Sucker. I am aghast; “Come on he is so nice.” Well he dumps me at the shop and I am quoted 111.00 USD for 3 very small cereal sized bowls. Sure!! I pay that for my cereal bowls all the time. So I laugh and out I go. Of course the store was open the next day. Fiesta my butt!! Hahaha So that’s what I get for thinking nice of the guy. Hahahaha
Walked around the University of Yucatan. Interesting. You should see the basketball court. All open and wildly painted. We really enjoyed seeing the school. We went into the Theater. (The Teatro) Beautiful!!
There is something every night in Merida. Tonight is the Banda Continental at the Parque Santiago. Live Mexican band. We love Latin music, so we went back to shower again and rest before dinner and heading out to find the Park.
Will post more tomorrow.

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