Posted by Toni in Cincy on November 29, 2001 at 21:37:57:
We enjoyed the small park just in front of the Hotel Gran. Lot of outside tables and places to get something to eat,as well as something to drink. We did need lots of fluids!! After showering for the second time that day, we headed off to eat and find Parque Santiago. On the city map it looked like quite a distance to the Parque. We ate just up from the Gran, a couple of blocks over at the El Portico del Peregrino. All open inside w\large courtyard. Very quiet and very beautiful. Lot of plants, decorations etc. It started to rain a little while we were eating, but the way the seating was arranged, even though you were open to the outside, a small cover ensured you stayed dry.
I must say rather than cooling off, the rain just sort of increased the heat and humidity to “sauna” like status!! Hahaha We were already sweating like crazy and the rain just added to the fun.
We started off on our walk to find the park. Mark gets very, very hot and he had been sweating a lot all day. He had me laughing at some of his remarks. Some can’t be mentioned you know.Haha
I thought that we would be walking w\a lot of people going to the park. But no one was out, not raining now, pitch dark, and very few streetlights. We weren’t sure what to expect. After a very hot and humid “stroll” …we arrive at the park! It is surrounded by loncherias …all doing a booming business. Beautiful old church beside the park as well as a brightly lit Movie Theater. The modern and the old sharing a park.
The band was warming up; we sat on a bench and waited. The perimeter of the park was filled w\red plastic “Coca Cola “ chairs. The people were pouring in, but on our walk we saw no one going…hmmmmm. The average age of the band members looked about 60+. All in their white guayaberas and black pants. Temperature maybe cooled down to about 100!
You could tell the people waiting to hear the band were all locals, all socializing and promenading around. All the men in long pants. Women in their finest. A few even had shawls. Mark and I are sweating profusely and they are as cool as cucumbers. Most of the people were older. We think we were the only tourists there that night.
The band started to play and immediately everyone and I mean almost everyone got up and started dancing. It was wonderful. One Mayan lady was dancing in her beautifully embroidered huipil. One couple …they were so elegant and beautiful to watch. He was very handsome and she had on a very fancy lace dress and they danced so precisely. It was something to see. Some were very, very graceful dancers. I was enchanted. As we sat, I saw the steps were fairly repetitive, I said to Mark…”We are not going home w\out dancing to this great band under the stars “ (and the band was really, really good!!) “we may never be back. “
It looks like 1, 2, 3 steps to the right w\some hip action of course and then 1,2, 3, left w\more hip. He was game… so up we got and we danced and danced. I recommend this to anyone who goes. What a treat! Mark had me laughing so hard. It was sooo darn hot and we are sweating even more. Mark has on this shirt that is supposed to be very cool and breathe. He and the shirt are now soaked. He said ….I would like for Patagonia to take a picture of me in this heat, they think their pictures show such hard stuff. I dare anyone to find harder work than this. (If you have seen their catalogs they have pics such as…”Joe Blow hanging by a thread off El Capitan in minus 13 degrees” Or “ Susie Sue trekking up the Himalayans to a hidden monastery at 200,000 feet.” And of course they are in Patagonia gear. Well anyway, maybe you had to be there… but I was laughing pretty hard. We danced till the heat got to us and we did our own trek back to splendid Air Conditioning. Of course we stopped in the square for some libations! A magical, magical night!!
Up early, we are off to Uxmal. We ate next door to the Gran at The Caribe Hotel. Adjacent to the Gran, Again a beautiful courtyard. Had 2 Toucans in a cage, they were singing?? It sounds like a clicking, droning sound. I was excited to see them… since Kay has them visiting her garden, I could say I saw some too!
We walked several blocks to the parking lot. We were crowded, people pushing, whew > Little narrow sidewalks…If you fall off you are in big trouble because the streets are so packed w\traffic you are a goner!!
We drove through Uman. They were setting up for a fiesta. What a neat town. Spotless, no trash that we saw. People everywhere. All the tricilos were covered w\brightly colored canopies. Loud speaker w\ music blaring. What fun!! We were going to stop on the way back, but you know how it is. Too tired and hot, but if you are passing by Uman, check it out.
Very easy, beautiful drive to Uxmal. Instead of deer crossing signs you see steer crossing signs. Pass through acres and acres of blue Agave plants..As far as the eye can see. Really neat. Again ..Lots of photo ops, but hard to get the pics w\out offending people. I do have a lot of “back photos’ Took them from behind…. So I have their backs but not faces.
Arrive at Uxmal, in the Puuc region. See Lgringo’s spotlight last month. There are actually hills and you can see the ruins as you approach. 10 pesos to park and 80 pesos to get in. We are there early, hardly anyone there. It is of course hot and sunny, but the sky is an incredible vivid blue.
WOW. The ruins are magnificent. Words do not do it justice. They were working on The Magicians Pyramid (The big one) and alas we could not climb it. I hope to go back so we can see the view from the top. We explored all the others though and enjoyed it immensely. The carvings and details can’t be described. Must see it to believe it. I plan on trying to post some photos this weekend. I will try. They are not bad. We spent an enjoyable morning and were in awe of the temples. They had no cenote like C.Itza. They lived in this area using saved rainwater!! Unbelievable. Their cistern was like all Mayan structures …light years ahead of its time.
Stopped at The Mayaland hotel on the grounds for a light snack and we swam in the pool before leaving for Merida. Nice way to cool off.
Back to Merida. I wanted to go to the Univ. of Yucatan bookstore for tees or hats. Well, it is a real bookstore, but they had 3 hats, and 3 very small tees. Chipped coffee mug. Oh well. I got two hats for the son in laws. I leave Mark and head to the Mercado. Mark thought that was an adventure I could do on my own. It’s an adventure all right. 2 billion people all crowded together, stalls, bikes, cars, etc. It was overwhelming. I planned on shopping and getting some great bargains. I was amazed at the sights and sounds. I like stuff like that, but it was even too much for me. I left and just walked the side streets looking in different kind of shops. Went into an appliance store. In the back they had all the great Mexican carved furniture. Some painted, some just plain. Huge tables for 90.00 USD. The big armoires for 300. The owner said to carry it on the plane!!
Did some shopping and went back to relax. Too many people and too hot. Whew!
Later we did the Calesa horse \buggy ride. We usually don’t do touristy things like that, but everyone said it is a must in Merida. Poor old horse. I hated to see them out in the heat. It was OK. I am glad we did it. Takes you up to Paseo de Montejo. Finally I see a big, wide beautiful tree shaded street. Hmmmm …..So here are those streets!! Hahaha Quick trip. Very nice informative guide. He told us about the huge mansions along the way. A lot are still private homes.
In my info packet it said that Banda Continental was playing again tonight near Casa de las Monjas. (House of the Nuns) I am excited! We will be dancing again tonight. I could get into this!!
We decide to eat at Albertos. I think Sharooni mentioned this restaurant in her Merida report. We are a little early for the dinner crowd, it is about 7PM. No one else there but us. Each table was all set and each had fresh flowers on them. They were beautiful snow white night blooming lilies. Or, as the charming host Alberto told us…”Lilies de Noche.” They actually opened while we were dining! Just saying” Lilies de Noche” sounds romantic. Since we were the only 2 there we got a private tour by Alberto. Very funky kind of place. The huge courtyard had enormous rubber trees, We really enjoyed it. Mark got cabbage rolls of all things and said it was his best meal of the entire 3 weeks!!
Headed off to find the band! Well the guard there said he was sorry, but they were not playing tonight. I was sad but Mark was ecstatic. He thought he might dehydrate and need IV fluids!!hahaha
So we enjoyed the evening walking around the various squares, listening to live music along the way. Great day!
The next morning we say a fond Adios to Merida and head back to Akumal!! There is a fresh OJ stand, (they sell it by the liters ),just around the corner from the cathedral. We got several to go and filled the cooler and we were back on the road again. Great fresh juice, we should have bought more
We had decided to return via Izamal. A small village known for it’s huge cathedral, Plus the Pope visited the city in the 70’s. They painted all the buildings yellow for his visit. . And the tradition continues. The entire city is yellow. Easy drive. Not a tourist in sight, We park on the square and walk around. This town too is setting up for a fiesta. Geesh..There are more fiestas going on ! They have the banners and signs etc. Huge trucks filled w\ foosball and video games. Electric cords running everywhere. The cathedral sits up on a knoll. We walk up and the grounds are huge. They are setting up enormous speakers. As we are walking around we hear drums and bugles. Well ,out of the church some several Mayan women in their huipiles carrying big banners followed by some drum and bugle players. Off they parade into town. No one around, or even paying attention. Of course we felt very lucky to see this. We just wonder what is going on.
There are several ruins in the town, none fully restored. We were going to climb one that from the top supposedly you can see C.Itza on a clear day. Well, since it was the usual 300 degrees and not a cloud in sight ..We passed.
Mark had to take a break from the heat as we were driving along. Hot, full sun. We needed to get out of the car into some shade. We opted to stop at Hacienda Chichen. What a beautiful place. The grounds, the hacienda. Good place to take a break. We had iced teas in those enormous goblets. Spent some time just relaxing.
As we were driving home on the Coba road..We really did see a Toucan. We both yelled Did you see that?? It flew right in front of us. That was a gift!! Fantastic.
Made it to Akumal, swam, and enjoyed another starry night. Good to be back. Enjoyed watching 2 turtles swim in the bay every day.
Does anyone remember the charming gent who sells silver as he walks along the beaches at AK? I usually buy from him. Prices are reasonable and he is supporting his family. We had not seen him in several yrs. Well ,he was out this yr. and told me he was in a terrible accident on 307, he had 5 operations and even has a colostomy. He said things were very hard for his family now. I bought from him and he even traded a bracelet for the USA hat I had on. It was his idea to trade for the hat., He was so sorry about the events of the 11th, he was very happy to get my hat with flag and USA on it. So if you see him, please buy a piece or two.!!
While at HMoon Bay we ate at La Lunita..Always good as well as Que Onda. We did not eat at La Buena Vida at all. I just find it hard to patronize the place since he put dive boats in HMB. It is one of our favorites too. Saw the dive boat go out once, but the fishing boat went out several times. Supposedly all of Akumal begged him not to put in the boats or build a pier. (No dock there yet) I was told that he (Jaime) was a spoiled Mamas boy. Just the local gossip, guys. I don’t even know what he looks like. Supposedly he inherited the land from his Mother.
Enjoyed a night in PDC. Rapidly changing. Some real upscale places, both shops and restaurants.
Down to just a couple of days left. Went to do the last dive and pay my bill. Because of our CEA membership..(You get a discount at the dive shop) They said I could have a free dive. No charge. So I did the 9-30 dive and then went back for the 11-30 free dive. Just Moises and me. He is a long time favorite Dive master. They take a boat out just for me. And it was a fantastic dive. As soon as we started , a turtle swam up and stayed between us for 20 mins. Moises timed it. It would stopp and eat the growth along the reefs. It was wonderful. The 3 of us just drifting along. Then just before we start up to the boat.. Moises gestures frantically and points. 3 enormous Giant spotted eagle rays just skimming and flying over the reefs. What a way to end a WONDERFUL trip. By the way…….Moises has been a long time bachelor. For those who know him. He was married in May. Lives in Chemuyil.
Finally say goodbye. Till next yr.!! Alas Adios Akumal !! Easy rental car return. At the airport… every piece of check in baggage for everyone is fully checked. Opened, and inspected Gloves worn. Then at the gate, random carryon checks. Easy customs in the states. No checks, no questions.
So whoever goes next better write a long, lengthy report. We all need our “Akumal fix” Toni